# 25 The Great Loop; North Carolina to NY City and crossing Wake

June 21; Myrtle Beach to Southport NC, Cruising Time 6.7 Hrs

Sights along the ICW:

Unusual to see a 3 mast schooner anchored in this location

I am told by locals that these shrimp boats are usually abandoned when the upkeep is not cost effective.  

Southport

 Southport is the site for many movies and TV shows.  The local museum had a room dedicated to those productions that were made in the town.

June 23; Southport to Mile Hammock Bay Anchorage, Cruising Time 9.5 Hrs


June 24; Mile Hammock Bay to Camp LeJuene (Gottschalk Marina), Cruising Time 3 Hrs


June 30; Camp LeJuene to Beaufort NC (Beaufort Docks), Cruising Time 8.4 Hrs

This cruise was delayed at a  ridge crossing as the Marines were conducting exercises with live fire, a 3 hour wait so I just dropped anchor and too a nap.

July 1; Beaufort NC to Cherry Point NAS (Hancock Marina), Cruising Time 4.8 Hrs

 Shower and Head facilities

July 5; Cherry Point NAS to Bellhaven (Dowery Creek Marina), Cruising Time 7.5 Hrs

Marina was the order of the day as they had a pool and the rate was reasonable. Yes, they had a pool and it was in the high 98 + degrees.

July 6; Bellhaven to Alligator River Anchorage, Cruising Time 5.5 Hrs

A quick moving storm approached and not liking the situation I dropped anchor to wait out the storm and spend the night.  As it turned out, the storm just passed by to the North and not much was to come of it.

Evening sky after the storm passed.

July 7; Alligator River Anchorage to Elizabeth City NC, Cruising Time 5.2 Hrs

July 8; Elizabeth City to Portsmouth VA (Top Rack Marina), Cruising Time 8.6 Hrs
We left Elizabeth City and traveled to Portsmouth VA via the Dismal Swamp passage.  The Dismal Swamp passage was surveyed by George Washington and was created to allow inland passage as well as harvesting of lumber from the swamp lands. The swamp passage is one of 2 ICW passages up the East Coast to mile zero of the ICW at Norfolk VA.  The other passage is closer to the coast and as I discovered less snags.

The light green is pollen from the trees.

 Welcome to Virginia

 Trees make an interesting challenge for sail boats and boats with tall masts if they stray from center.
I did hit snags twice transiting the swamp, luckily no damage to the propeller.

Here I am going around a fallen tree which nearly blocked the passage.  My radio antenna did tip some tree branches while negotiating this spot.  My traveling companion (AKA Buddy Boat) was the "Adirondack" and they supplied this picture.

There are two locks on the Dismal Swamp rising and lowering approximately 8 feet.  They have specific times to open and close so no dilly dally was allowed.  I did stop at the visitor's center mid way but due to opening times for the second lock, I was only able to spend about 30 minutes.  If it was cooler I may have spent the night but it was oppressive heat and those dear flies were angry.

The Top Rack marina had a sweet deal if you ate at the marina restaurant the slip fee was waived. I had Rack of Lamp which was excellent.

July 9; Portsmouth VA (Top Rack Marina) to Ocean Marina, Cruising Time 1.7 Hrs
This structure holds one of the largest lighthouse lens in the world (An order 1 lens). There is one larger in Hawaii.

The Commodore Diner Theater

The Route 58 Delicatessen was our stop for lunch.  Here Jeff a fellow boater/looper ordered the famous Ruben sandwich.  To be fair, Jeff took half home for another meal.

Across from the marina in Portsmouth is the Navy shipyard here is an aircraft carrier in for refit according to the dock hand at the local marina it has been in that spot for 3 years:

July 10; Ocean Marina to Norfolk NAS , Cruising Time 1.6 Hrs

The USS Harry S. Truman Homecoming took place the 3 days after I arrived and I got to witness the activities.

Some of the families waiting for they're returning warriors.  I like the sign the boy was holding which said 240 days of waiting for my Dad.  The little girl had a list of to dos, the last one was to kiss mommy.  What a feeling I got just to witness the process.

 The Marina Laundry room had its military influence showing.  Like I said I find some signs humorous

I left my car in NAS Jacksonville and was able to catch a HOP on a military transport to there via Barksdale AFB Louisiana. I got the car and drove back to Norfolk the next day.  This has been a pattern of mine since December, in that I have been "Hop Scotching " my car as I travel the Great Loop.  Usually my efforts involve a combination of UBER and Grey Hound buses to move from one place to another.  Having a car at my disposal in Norfolk gives me greater flexibility as to the amount of activities I can pursue.  The following are things to do at Norfolk and vicinity:

Chrysler Museum

 I found the flow of marble was translated to silk by the sculptor of this statue

Elegant glass sculpture

 The whimsical:

 A couple of my favorite Impressionist Art in the gallery

 The mermaid is the symbol of Norfolk and as such I saw many versions of the same statue thru out Norfolk, this is on the museum grounds.

Virginia Zoological Park

Naticus: USS Wisconsin

 The shell which could be fired from one of Wisconsin's 16 inch guns weighed as much as a VW

 View from the Bow

 View from the Stern

 Another Mermaid

 Fort Monroe

Fort Monroe was named after President Monroe.  There were several attempts at fortification at this spot over the years starting with the earliest settlers in 1609. The fort was never in Confederate hands during the Civi War and acted as a gateway to freedom for many slaves escaping from their captors.  Thus the name Freedom's Fort was derived as slaves sought and achieved freedom at this fort.

The Casement view from inside the fort.  This is where the museum is and in one section are rooms where Jefferson Davis was held after the Civil War.

 What is interesting is that both General Lee, Jefferson Davis and President Lincoln's paths would cross at this Fort

Rampart moats

 Rear view

The Mariners Museum

I went to the Mariners Museum in Newport News today because it housed and displayed the Monitor Ironclad Civil War warship remains and had life like replicas to include a full size model of the ship.  In addition, they have some of the best figureheads from the age of sail.  Although I believe the Salem, MA (Peabody Essex Museum) has a greater collection. (Just saying).

 This figurehead has a wing span of 19 feet

 Mock up of the Monitor turret

 Topside on the full sized Monitor replica

 Admiral Nelson tribute room

 More Figureheads and ships models

July 23; Norfolk NAS to Cape Charles , Cruising Time 3.6 Hrs

July 24; Cape Charles to Tangiers Island (Parks Marina), Cruising Time 4.4 Hrs

Reason for stopping here; it may not be here for long with higher waters and erosion taking its toll.  Most of the wharfs and piers are in disrepair and falling apart.  It looks like this island has seen its better days.

 Milton Parks has been running his marina for many years and was a very congenial person to me and  the other boaters who were on the docks for the day.

Stop for lunch, had crab cakes with a flounder fillet......yummy.

Have you ever seen a crabby chair?

As I said I believe the island is slowly being eroded away, this signage attests to that fact. 

I think the story goes that these islanders sided with the British and as such were ignored by the USA after the war of 1812 and to some extent are still paying the price.

If you can read the reasons for the graves sited where they are did I think because of the high water table and being prone to flooding they put extra heavy cement covers to keep the dead from popping out of the ground in a flood.

July 25; Tangiers Island to Quantico , Cruising Time 11.1 Hrs

The highlight of staying at Quantico is being able to visit the Marine Museum.  It took an UBER car to get me there and back but it was well worth the visit.

 Entrance

They used lifelike manikins to give a portrayal of life of a Marine.

 A projected screen which showed performances of Sousa's marches and the value of music to the Marine tradition.

 WWI depictions

July 27; Quantico  to Mt Vernon Docks and Bolling AFB (Capital Cove Marina) , Cruising Time 4.9Hrs
First stop after leaving Quantico was the Mount Vernon Docks where I could tie up and roam the plantation and home of our first President.

 George depicted as a young surveyor.

 George Washington at Vally Forge.  Did you know that he had 2 horses thru out the war the gray was always shown but Washington preferred a chestnut horse during battle for is had better "battle nerves".

 Mount Vernon view of the Potomac

 Washington Tomb

 I think this is called the 16 sided barn.  It had slats in the floor which when an acre of harvested grain was placed on the floor and horses were walked around in a fashion so as to cause the seeds to fall to the floor below.  This was a Washington innovation.

Slave House

 Mount Vernon

 Cruising further up River I passed Fort Washington to starboard.

After arriving at Bolling AFB Marina I made several trips into the city to do the tourist thing.  The following are pictures of things I saw or visited.  I would be remiss if I didn't mention that at each stop I met folks who offered rides or assistance and the trips to DC would still be made but the rides and help I received made things so much more doable.

Grand Union Station

 Capitol Hill where both Senate and House of Representatives work.

 Smithsonian Castle

 Eternal flame on the JFK Grave site.

A view of Washington from the Lee-Curtis House

  The Tomb of the Unknown

The guard of the tomb

The back of the Tomb of the Unknown

 Mall reflecting pool

 Lincoln Memorial

 This is the view that Lincoln has all the time down the mall to the Washington monument.

While I was waiting for a bus these girls showed up looks like they were from the Miss USA pageant.

I had to go to the National Gallery of Art because they had a great Impressionist collection and they had the only DA Vinci painting in the USA.  The National Gallery paid 5 million dollars for this portrait. This is it, I found that I liked this painting as much the Mona Lisa.  The second frame is the back of the painting.

From Wikipedia: "It is known that Leonardo painted a portrait of Ginevra de' Benci in 1474, painted in Florence possibly to commemorate her marriage that year to Luigi di Bernardo Niccolini at the age of 16. According to Giorgio Vasari's Lives of the Artists (second edition, 1568), however, Ginevra was not the daughter of Amerigo de' Benci, and the wife of Luigi di Bernardo Niccolini. They married on 14 January 1474. The painting's imagery and the text on the reverse of the panel support the identification of this picture. Directly behind the young lady in the portrait is a juniper tree. "

"The reverse of the portrait is decorated with a juniper sprig encircled by a wreath of laurel and palm and is memorialized by the phrase VIRTVTEM FORMA DECORAT ("beauty adorns virtue")."

 Washington Monument is visible from everywhere

 This is one of 3 connecting archways between the Department of Agriculture.  This department is huge.  I did have lunch in their cafeteria and it was pretty good.

 You can blow up this frame and see information on the Iwo Jima Memorial

It doesn't look so big from here.

 But it is very big, as stated the figures are 32 feet tall and the flag pole is 60 feet tall.

The base contains all of the major wars that the Marines have participated in, wrapped around continuing to a second row.

Unfortunately I had to leave Washington DC and headed out on a rather overcast day which is kinda how I felt about leaving such a vibrant city.

Aug 5; Washington DC to Dahlgren VA (Dahlgren Yacht Club) , Cruising Time 8.8 Hrs
This is a Military Recreational marina open to active and retired personnel.  I stop at most of these marinas to reconnect with my past.  Usually these stops allow for provisioning or just kick back.  Dahlgren turned out to be a rest stop for the night.

Aug 6; Dahlgren Yacht Club to Patuxent River, MD (West Basin Marina) , Cruising Time 8.8 Hrs
This is a Military Recreational marina open to active and retired personnel.  I stop at most of these marinas to reconnect with my past.  Usually these stops allow for provisioning or just kick back.  West Basin is another rest stop for the night.

Aug 7; Pax River to St Michael MD, Cruising Time 4 Hrs

Aug 9; St Michaels to Annapolis MD (City Mooring Field), Cruising Time 7.2 Hrs

 Annapolis Plebes muster for lunch

Aug 11; Annapolis MD to CDR Dunning Memorial Marina, Cruising Time 2.3 Hrs

Aug 13; Annapolis MD (CDR Dunning) to Rock Hall MD (Swan Creek), Cruising Time 3.5 Hrs

Rock Hall was hosting a Pirates and Wenches weekend, I anchored in the creek and dingyed to land to participate in the activities.  It was extremely hot and most people were in attendance for the early parade then dissipated from the sun until the evening debauchery started.

Music under the pavilion all day and night, this first group (Pirates for Sail) were pretty good. I listened to them for about an hour then feeling obligated I purchased a CD.  Cann't have too many sea shanties.

Aug 14; Rock Hall to Baltimore, MD Dock, Cruising Time 4.9 Hrs

I loved Baltimore Harbor, I could run right up to the center, just one block from Camden Yards.  There is anchorage behind the USS Constellation. There is a water taxi that covers the entire harbor and a "charm bus" that does the same on land.

Marker in Baltimore Harbor where Francis Scott Key observed the bombardment of Fort McHenry

 Fort McHenry from a distance

 USS Constellation.

 City Dock

 Baltimore Harbor

Tour bus Host with a propensity for wearing different hats to emphasize his lecture.

 Ft McHenry

 Camden Yard

Aug 23; Baltimore to Chesapeake City MD, Cruising Time 6.3 Hrs

Chesapeake City was established as a laborers settlement when digging the Delaware and Chesapeake Canal. The city sits on the western end of the canal and is home to the Army Corp of Engineers responsible for the canal maintenance.  There is also a museum about the canal.

Chesapeake City is a nice stop, the city dock is free but if you want electricity there is a $15 charge.  Cheap enough and I was right in town.  There is another marina with a restaurant which is a hopping place in he evening. Just a short walk from the dock to the marina.  Great fun there at night, usually a band and there is a Tiki bar.  Up in town there is a great breakfast diner.  Several shops in town for those inclined.  I met a fellow who took me to the local farm for some fresh produce, corn on the cob and fresh tomatoes delicious.

This building was a bank at one time, now it is a gift shop.

Aug 25; MD, NJ (Utsch's Marina), Cruising Time 8.3 Hrs

Shopping pedestrian mall

As I stated before, I find some signs as humorous.

Cape May tour carriages:

Cape May Beach, chair for rent and an admission fee!!!

Evening at the theater, enjoyed a version of Neil Simons "Barefoot in The Park"

Aug 27; Cape May NJ to Atlantic City NJ, Cruising Time 8.3 Hrs

Approach to Atlantic City:

 On the wharf deck at Golden Nugget Marina and bar.

 Entertainment

 Refreshing drink at the deck

 Walk way from the deck to the casino

Aug 27; Atlantic City NJ to Statue of Liberty Park , Cruising Time 8.3 Hrs


Crossing your own wake signifies the completion of the "Great Loop".  Firebird and I started the Great Loop in July 1, 2015.  We left Beverly Ma, however, entering the loop occurred at the Statue of Liberty, so the official crossing is at that point.

I find this sign as appropriate as the signal for the completion of the "Great Loop".