The obvious goal is to have a safe holiday on the motor vessel Firebird. The adventure starts on 27 July departing from Yarmouth Maine. Our first day out will be aimed at reaching Tenant Harbor or Duck Harbor. Weather is always a consideration for any ocean voyage, so I have planned break off stops along the way. We will be joining the "Points East" Magazine sponsored flotilla at Northeast Harbor in Arcadia. There will be 15 boats in the flotilla, 6 power and 9 sail.
Loaded the boat with perishables, shoved off from Yarmouth at 1030 hrs. Set off down the Royal River at a non-wake speed of 5 MPH. Once we cleared the first “can” we could establish a cruising speed of 9 MPH. With the favorable out tide we were achieving 10.3 MPH for the first few hours, until we got in deep water where the influence of the current is less noticeable. In all we averaged 9.3 MPH the first day.
Past old friends at Royal River Marina.
At High tide the river is much easier to navigate as it is heavily silted and the channel is very narrow at low tide.
Just past the monument (little Mark Island) we spotted our first surprise of the day. Waddling slowly thru the water was a sunfish. It has no tail but has a large upper and lower mid body fin. So it sort of wiggles itself along. These fish are now rare because they are so easy to catch. There is a web site, which asks for sightings. I reported one several years ago and will do the same for this one. Unfortunately, I couldn't get a good picture because of the boat angle and waves.
Past Fuller Rock near Small Point.
Past Sequin Island and Lighthouse
Coming close to the Cuckolds lighthouse we spotted our first set of dolphins, cruising along. It appeared they were synchronized swimming. We spotted a few more just past Damariscotta Island.
Into Muscongus Bay, we passed Egg Rock; it had a few strange structures on the otherwise barren island.
In checking it out, it appears that the University of Maine has successfully reintroduced the Puffin to the area on that small island. They actually hollowed out small dens for the chicks to habitat. Now there are over 30 mating pairs returning each year. We didn’t see any but the info is interesting.
We ate lunch under way, turkey sandwich wraps with cucumbers and ice tea. I ran Firebird from the lower helm during lunch, although my preference is the bridge in all sorts of weather.
Firebird arrived at Tenants harbor at 1700 hrs; we had the choice of picking up a mooring ball owned by Cod End restaurant or find a place to anchor. The harbor is crowded with little anchor options available. However there is a nice cove just to the north east of Tenants harbor called Long Cove. We chose to anchor there, as it was wide open with good holding bottom (mud).
The evening was pleasant with a great sunset.
Day 2.
Today we woke to a bright and calm morning. We decided to take the dingy into Tenants harbor for ice and to look up an old friend who had retired in the local vicinity. Turns out she works at the Tenants Harbor library, just a short walk from the dock. After a short visit we arranged to meet for lunch at the Cod End restaurant. I thought it would be good to take the ice back to the boat and pull anchor and motor back to the public dock then we could leave direct from there to our next night stop. In checking my below deck status I noticed that the bolts holding the prop shaft secure were in fact loose. After much frustration and contortions of my body to get into the small location I tightened most of them. Of course this delayed our meeting with our friends, so off we went in the dingy at full speed to reconnect. I didn’t want to start the engine on the boat until I was sure I had completed the task. Working in a hot engine compartment was not my idea of fun.
Lunch was good, Fish Chowder for me Hamburger for Jillie.
We finally got under way at 1600 hrs, which meant that we would only attempt a short run today. So we went to Pulpit Harbor on North Haven Island.
Pulpit is known as a Hurricane Hole as it is well protected from all sides. To get into the harbor we have to pass a large rock formation in the center of the entrance we passed to the north past the rocks, which has a very large Osprey nest atop.
Pulpit was crowded, but we managed to find a spot to drop anchor. It was a cool night and after evening meal, we slept well.
Day 3.
Up early, breakfast and off at 0900 hrs.
Mount Desert island is quite a sight set out in the horizon. You just cannot miss it.
We headed for and passed Bass Harbor lighthouse at 1259 hrs.
Arriving at Northeast Harbor at 1600 hrs. The process for getting a mooring at Northeast harbor is select any vacant mooring with a number series corresponding to the size of your boat 300 series = 30-40 Ft. The first mooring we selected was in a good spot however the mooring goddess told us to move, as it had not received its annual safety certification. We were offered a tie up to a float shared with a sailboat on the other side. Good and easy securing that hook up. Still meant we had to dingy to shore. The Epiphany was on the next float and the owner Maria came out on her float to welcome us, she knows the Firebird well (both of us are from Yarmouth and Firebird being the only RED Grand Banks in Maine).
We headed for and passed Bass Harbor lighthouse at 1259 hrs.
Arriving at Northeast Harbor at 1600 hrs. The process for getting a mooring at Northeast harbor is select any vacant mooring with a number series corresponding to the size of your boat 300 series = 30-40 Ft. The first mooring we selected was in a good spot however the mooring goddess told us to move, as it had not received its annual safety certification. We were offered a tie up to a float shared with a sailboat on the other side. Good and easy securing that hook up. Still meant we had to dingy to shore. The Epiphany was on the next float and the owner Maria came out on her float to welcome us, she knows the Firebird well (both of us are from Yarmouth and Firebird being the only RED Grand Banks in Maine).
We took the dinghy ashore and caught the free bus to Bar Harbor where we walked around doing the tourist stuff, bought a great cup of Blueberry coffee and then went back to the boat for supper and sleep. We were both very tired from today’s activity; the fresh air, beam seas and toggles wear on you.
Day 4;
Today we met up with the other boaters who are to be part of our “Flotilla”. There are all sorts of boats, 9 sail and 6 power. Our organizing meeting was at the local church at 1300. There we met each other and found out a bit about the boats and owners. There are a few participants who did this trip in the past. So we will have some local knowledge along the way. We divided the group into 3 teams according to their expected cruising speed. I was place in group 1 (8 + Knots expected).
We broke up only to rejoin at 1800 hrs for an evening buffet. The spread was great. What diet?
We decided to leave the following morning NLT 600 hrs to take advantage of the tides and currents. So we went back to the boat for an early evening. No such luck, at 2200 hrs there was a series of fireworks shot off from the overlooking hotel. They woke me from a deep sleep, but no problem who needs 8 hours anyway.
Day 5:
O500 up and at breakfast, coffee and lots of it. The other member of my group, a 50 ft Fleming and 42 ft Duffy cruised by to remind me. So off we set on a 7 hr journey to Cutler. Cutler will be our jumping off point to Canada.
Approaching Jonesport Bridge.
Our journey to Cutler took 7 hours. We got into the harbor and found a place to anchor; at Cutler the tide is 15.5 ft today. So we need to be mindful of the amount of water below us and what will be left when the tide goes out and also the same issue is a concern on the incoming tide. We need plenty of scope on our anchor.
Cutler Lighthouse. While the official Coast Guard position is they are all automatic, those which are under the care of local restoration groups sometime occupy or rent out the living quarters. This is such a case.
The town of Cutler.
The town of Cutler.
The last boat arrived at 1700 hrs; having been caught in an unfavorable tide they could only make 3 MPH for several miles.
Low tide at Cutler meant that we had to clime a 25+ ft ladder to get on dry land. We did this to go to an evening meal was hosted by the local church.
Lobster or steak with salad, corn and rolls blueberry cake and coffee. I had the lobster, caught fresh that day. Jill had steak and stated it was excellent.
One of the church ladies played the piano while a few joined in for a trip down memory (or lack of it) lane. Wait a minute how did that song go?
One of the church ladies played the piano while a few joined in for a trip down memory (or lack of it) lane. Wait a minute how did that song go?
Day 6:
We left Cutler bright and early and headed to Grand Manan Island. It was a 35 miles across real open water with a 3 MPH tide pushing us along the way. Firebird flew. This is a busy shipping channel to St Johns so we had to stay alert. Our first encounter was a large cargo ship with sailboats on the top deck. Although it appeared far away it soon passed us with no trouble at all.
We had to cruise to the top of Grand Manan on the western side then round the top to the eastern side. This was the least dangerous course. As you approach the Island what impresses you is the cliffs all around the island. There are campsites on the rim along the north cliffs and as we passed we could see lots of campers watching our progress.
Approaching Swallowtail Lighthouse.
Approaching Swallowtail Lighthouse.
Rounding this light house we were close to the harbor. Upon arrival we were told that the mooring balls were OK to use. We hooked up to one only to be told it was the exception and not for public use, fisher men near by offered their mooring so we moved over to it. Once settled I had to go ashore to clear customs. The process is to go to the pay phone just outside the only official looking building and call a toll free number with all the needed info. The customs folks would issue a number to be displayed on the boat and used when leaving. After all that, I was told that there would be 27 ft tide today. Since I was sitting on top of 33 feet of water this became another challenge. I spoke to the Harbor Master and full time funeral operator and he suggested I come inside the quay and raft up with another boat. Not to worry as this area was all dredged out. So that is what I did. Just as I tied up, a juvenile Bald Eagle , landed on the light pole above us.
This picture shows the tide at ½ and going out.
These pictures show low tide, boats tucked in for the tide cycle.
The Canadian Government has encouraged fish farming at Grand Manan, the truck is off loading special feed for the salmon pens onto a feed boat, which goes out to the pens and feed the “crop”. Since the lobster fishing is restricted during the months of July to November, this is one of the occupations the fishermen turn to.
Day 7;
Left today for the 40 mile to St John, we had fog and 5 - 6ft chop most of the way. Boat ran and performed great. Got into St John but had to wait for the tide to change before we could head up river, set the anchor in the inner harbor for 2 hours. There was a bad weather front moving in and just as I tried to move /pull anchor we were hit by 60 mph gale winds. Almost pushed us into the breakers before I got the anchor raised. Harrowing experience for us but we survived for the next challenge going up the reversing falls in the ST John river.
Lighthouse and docks inside the breakwater, where we should have waited instead of where we did wait (re: above). We got a radio message that stated there was no room here, obviously there was. Anyway, we came inside the harbor and motored in a slow circle until the reversing falls were deemed passable.
This is a picture of one of our fellow flotilla having passed the falls, now going thru the gorge.
This is a picture of one of our fellow flotilla having passed the falls, now going thru the gorge.
Day 8: We spent the morning on the mooring, then we went into St John for a tour of the Fundy Control facility. This operation is much the same as an air traffic control operation only for shipping in the Bay of Fundy. It was interesting, I got to talk to the man behind the voice who assisted me into St John Harbor the previous day.
Walking around the city center I spotted the Volleyball center waiting for some sun and competitors.
Some of the crews getting direction for the right bus back to RKYC.
In the evening we had a banquet and informational talk put on by the RKYC. Their name is Royal Kennebeccasis Yacht Club. Being named after the river they occupy, however, when they submitted their request to Queen Victoria, back in 1898, some how the name was misspelled, so the river name has 1 "c" while the club has 2. Obviously they couldn't go back to the Queen and infer that she made a mistake.
We had a great meal and good conversation discussing the options open to us going up river. From this point to Aug 11 we will be on the river and our journey will be less structured. Boats will pick areas to visit of interest to them and do so alone or as a sub group of the whole flotilla.
Day 9.
Today we started off rather slow, up at 8 AM, not a schedule to follow. We had a leisurely breakfast and checked “e-mail” as we had good connectivity from RKYC. Then we transferred the mooring lines to the Dolphin Dream, and moved into the water dock to replenish the fresh water tanks. Once there, we also got more ice and decided to get another pump out. I always get water topped off because the tanks are in the stern and the boat recovers best with the proper weight distribution. Getting pump outs is also essential for long trips. In Maine they are free because they don’t want folks dumping in the water. Here in St Johns it cost $10. Still I usually tip the attendant at the free pump outs so no biggie.
We started out for a leisurely cruise to Jenkins Cove up river. The river is known as the Rhine of North America. While today was overcast and windy it certainly lived up to its reputation. We traveled against a current, varying from 1-2 knots all the way so it was slow going. Along the river at bends and navigation “need” points we saw these range lights. They all look similar but serve a vital function in aiding the boater to maintain course. I understand that not much commercial shipping is carried on above the reversing falls. We only saw the ferries and 1-2 pleasure craft the entire day journey.
The ferries are along the river going from on side to the other. The significant point about the ferries is that they go across the river with cable. So crossing in front of the ferries is not wise as the cable is taunt and could spoil your boating day. So we call the ferries and identify ourselves and clear a crossing of its path, always to the stern. Note that the bow and stern are identical, so you need to pay attention.
Some more range lights.
We arrived in Jenkins cove after 5 hours of up river traveling. Our new friends in the sailboat Syringa dropped anchor first followed by us. We went to their boat for cocktail hour after we were settled in. Several others joined us.
Here we have the boat Lidia Green settled in for a good nights sleep. Thus ended the day, not a lot of excitement but enjoyable just the same.
It was a little overcast in the morning but soon after it got sunny. This picture is of some of our boats in Jenkins cove prior to the suns arrival.
The edge of Jenkins cove has lots of water lilies and pads.
There are farms all along the lake there was one at the end of the cove. While I was cruising around in my dingy, Jillie was fishing. I got some worms from a fisher man in the cove.
There are lots of Bald Eagles here, I approached several but could only get this picture. They usually flew away before I could snap a picture. Moments after I took the picture he was gone.
Houseboats along the river. We saw barges which I learned the farmers use to transport livestock to one of many river islands and leave them for the summer. They won't wander off will they?
This fellow is erecting a mast mounting system to replace the old pole. He later sailed up to where we were anchored and I asked what he was doing. He will use the system to remove the mast from his sail boat when he takes it from the water for storage.
The land flattened out as we went further up river. There are farms on both sides of the river, cattle, cows and horses graze down to the rivers edge. It is deep right to the edge with swift drop offs. That allowed us to cruise close to shore in most cases. There are isolated land areas in the river system which allow the farmers to barge their livestock to these places and leave them unobserved since they can't leave because of the "river fence". If you look close you can see one of the boat crew in dingy getting close to the animals.
We reached Colwell creek about 1630 hrs. Dropped the anchor behind the schooner Lydia Green.
Across the creek shoreline. The current is about 1 knot, so the boats keep in a line and swing very little.
After a day on the water rest and relaxation and a swim is in order.
Day 11:
Today started off quietly, it was agreed to go to Douglas harbor on Grand Lake after breakfast/ before noon. Most of the boats left while Jill and I were enjoying the morning. We hauled anchor and proceeded up the Colwell Creek, when I got a call on radio Channel 10 (the channel designated for flotilla communications) that Dolphin had engine trouble. We circled back with two other boats: the Lydia Green and Alida. Lydia Green and Firebird came along side and tied (rafted) to the Dolphin. After several hours of trying to fix and trouble shoot the problem, I suggested that we should bring the Dolphin to the nearest Marina in Gagetown. Lydia Green and Alida left and I strapped the Dolphin to my starboard side and proceeded to Gagetown. Things went smoothly except when I tried to alter course. The Dolphin was 44 ft long, had an 8 ft keel and weighed 28000 lbs so steering was problematic. I hit on the idea that Bob (Dolphin owner) should use his rudder in tandem with me thereby giving better steerage. I gave him one of my wireless headsets and would tell him to correct course XX degrees port or starboard and we would both turn our rudders in tandem for better steerage. It worked great.
Dolphin Crew is glad to have the tow, they were not use to moving at 6 knots under power. Whee!!!
Gagetown about 1700 hrs and were able to hook him to an mooring. Jill and I were exhausted so we decided to stay the night instead of going to the lake. We hooked up to the dock, paid our money and turned on the air conditioner.
Later we were invited by Bob and Jan for dinner. We gladly accepted and were excellent guests. We returned to Firebird at 2230 and Jill was asleep by 2235. Not an ordinary day but full of excitement. I will post this from Gagetown tomorrow if connections are good.
Day 12:
Today was a down day in Gagetown. We were tied to the dock all day except for a few moments, which I’ll explain further on. Here is Firebird without the crowd to come.
Note the house boat passing by the 50 ft Flemming, it had a wheel which turned as to moved simulating a paddle wheeler. You can do all kinds of crazy things on a river.
At 0700 hrs Jill got up to do the laundry at the local laundry mat. This place was actually several washing machines and dryers in the cellar of a private residence. There were little frogs all over the floor when we arrived. The door is open and these little fellows saw an opportunity for a laundry mat invasion. Not to mention that we had a frog in the front head sink when we started the day.
We were able to get Internet connection while waiting for the laundry, so we both dialed up our respective accounts and did some communication. After that we hooked up with Jean of the Dolphin and went for a walk around town. This consisted of walking a block (4 streets) in 4 directions a big square. Highlights were a house selling Garlic for 2 dollars a Bunch, Irving Gas and grocery store, 2-gift shops 1 artisan shop and a restaurant. It was hot so we spent some time in the Irving air conditioning. I bought so more oatmeal.
A privately owned home in town, note the metal roof, hard to miss from a distance.
Busy street in Gagetown, you can just see Firebird way down there.
I spoke to the dock master about spending another night on dock, but was informed that most of the owners were returning so we would have to move. In the meantime, Dolphin Dream arrived and asked to raft up to Firebird. Sandy and Bill are the owners and originally from Beverly, now from Gloucester. I helped them tie up. Theirs was the boat you saw coming thru the gorge in my earlier post.
This is when the excitement starts; Sandy dislocated her hip and asked for help from Jill and me. I ran to get her husband and after that, called the flotilla to see if anyone had medical training. There was a doctor and nurse among the group but they were still under way heading for Gagetown. I then contacted the group organizer who called for an ambulance. In the meantime Sandy was standing on one foot with the other leg completely skewed inward. We were able to lower her into a chair and elevate her leg to ease the pain and discomfort. She was a real trooper, seems to have happened before. So while waiting for the EMT, we slid Dolphin Dream behind my boat and up to the dock so off loading Sandy would be easier. Well the EMT arrived and one of the guys had to weigh at least 300 lbs. There was no way he was going to get on the boat and extricate Sandy. So I went into the boat and helped the other EMT set her on the stretcher and take the head position on the stretcher. We pass that over the gunnel's to those other members who hoisted her onto the wheeled stretcher. From that point she was in good hands and off to the hospital. Bill left me in control of his boat and 2 Siamese cats aboard.
Now Ill explain the short departure from the dock. Shortly after the EMT incident, the dock master requested that I raft up with the First Snow (50 ft Fleming). The only problem was that we had just returned the Dolphin Dream to a raft position on my Port side. To raft up to First Snow I would have to put the Dolphin Dream on my starboard side. So off we went again, moving the Dolphin Dream to the rear of my boat, moving my boat out of dock, swinging around and picking Dolphin Dream to my starboard. Then swinging the two of us from the dock into the river and back up stream to raft with the First Snow. Well the helm was extremely difficult and I could only control direction in a fast current in reverse. So my first attempt to tie up failed. Around again we went, this time I allowed for the influence of reverse pulling the bow to port. We were able to ease into the rafting position with First Snow and lash her down for the night. None to soon as a rainstorm with wind soon arrived soaking everything. So we were off the dock for a short run all of 15 minutes. Firebird again performed admirably. During this time frame, another boater not connected with the current action, fell and got a gash in her head requiring stitches, so another trip to the local hospital was in order.
Firebird rafted with Dolphin Dream and First Snow
Today the only good news was we got our laundry cleaned, and the Dolphin was able to get a part and get his motor started and we were invited to diner on the First Snow.
We are now being rocked a bit by the waves and wind. Tomorrow we will be going to Kings Landing to spend the day. A little history never hurt anybody.
Day 13: Today it is raining heavily and has been doing so thru out the night. It was a rough night with high winds and choppy river. The movement was amplified because we were rafted to the Dolphin Dream and since it is a lighter boat sitting to my outward side its’ motions were transmitted to Firebird.
This morning we were suppose to be picked up by a tour bus for a trip to Kings Landing, which is a period reenactment village. Floatillians started trying to raise Bernie (Flotilla Organizer) at 800 hrs because of the uncertainty from the weather. After a considerable time listening to calls from other boats and they being unable to get him by radio I decided to put my slicker on and track him down. I walked to the “bed and breakfast” that he was staying to roust him up. On the way I spotted the bus and driver at the local Irving store and went over to him to understand his instructions and to see if Bernie had contacted him…no. I sent the bus to the Marina parking lot and went to the B&B to get Bernie. The owner got him and I filled him in on what everyone was concerned with and got an update on our casualties from yesterday.
Update: Casualties were all back on board and things were back to normal albeit sore.
After changing wet clothes Jill and I went to the bus and with a group of sturdy folks headed off to Kings Landing.
Kings Landing is a village created with homes and building of the era which were historically certified as correct and moved to this site. All were moved from the riverbanks of the St John River which was to be flooded by a newly constructed dam and would raise the depth of river from 4 to 150 feet. It is interesting to note that during the revolutionary war 15,000 Loyalists arrived en-mass from New York and neighboring states. The King according to their rank or stature gave these folks land grants. These are the folks who were to make up the base population of the area. Their descendants still occupy surrounding lands.
It stopped raining when we arrived at Kings Landing, although it continued to rain in Gagetown. We were glad we made the decision to go on the trip instead of spending 8 hours on the boat in the rain. The following are photos from Kings Landing:
The entrance and original pub/boarding house " The Kings Head Tavern" Prop: Joseph Holyoke:
This is Jeff our guide for the tour of the village.
Fences were constructed this way because nails were scarce and this was the strongest design they could come up with without fasteners.
Blacksmith Shop
Children of the village. These children are "visiting cousins" who live with a family in the village for one week and are immersed into the life style of the era. No MacDonald's or cell phones etc. These children were coming back from a lesson on using "lambs ear" for a bandage.
One of our boaters drying her rain gear in front of the fireplace. Note the occupant and her dress. Turns out that one of the greatest causes of death and injury for woman of the period was burning from their dress catching on fire from the fireplace. Can't wait for the invention of the microwave oven.
This is a "mammy bench" which acts as a cradle rocker and when you remove that front stay, becomes a bench.
This is running water thru carved out cedar logs:
It is hard to determine from this photo, but the large hedges lining the walkway of this house contained wild roses. The homeowner would make rose hip jelly from the bulbs. Explaining the process leads me to believe that I will never make any.
In one of the period houses we had this room. The interesting thing about this room is it contains the clock which belonged to Benedict Arnold, considered a hero in Canada.
The village raised a lot of variations of flowers and vegetables. These were common in their era but have become nearly extinct. So they are trying to bring them back thru their reintroduction program. This is a garden at the wealthiest house in the landing. Note the red t shirt, all the folks on the flotilla got a shirt, some wore it often others not at all.
The approach to the old saw mill, it actually functions but at the moment is down for parts.
This blade can cut up to 2 ft circumference logs.
The fences were erected in this fashion for better stability and without any fasteners. Nails were of a premium. In fact the Blacksmith stated that during his era, abandoned homes would sometimes be burned down to salvage the nails.
Tomorrow is the cocktail party and BBQ at the Marina.
Day 14:
Today is the last day at Gagetown; it is a do nothing day with a dock party in the afternoon and a BBQ in the evening. To accomplish the dock party the 2 largest powerboats were rafted together and will serve as the host boats. Everyone will bring an appetizer. The party went off without a hitch. No drama today.
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Setting up for the guests
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Hi Yo Silver Coming into dock
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Guests arriving from the Syringa
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Bernie the flotilla organizer
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Paragon preparing to back out of dock against strong currents.
The BBQ was hosted by the marina and the food was (I am told) great. Since Jill and I had a lot of meats still uncooked and thawed we thought it best to cook and consume our own this time. We did attend the ceremonies, which included the MLP of the area presenting a certificate of appreciation to Bernie and a NB Flag to the flotilla member who had done the trip the most often.
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This sign reflects the appreciation the local folks had for the Flotilla arrival.
Bernie gets an award from MLP.
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NB MLP Presents Bernie with an award
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BBQ as viewed from Firebird
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Day 15: Today we journey down river to RKYC to spend the night, hold our organizing meeting and prepare our selves and boats for the journey thru the reversing falls and out to Campobello. The following pictures were of the journey down river. Of note is the push from the current that pushed us part of the way and the RAIN for most of the day.
Dolphin makes good time with sail set and motor running down river. The owner was able to by pass one of the fuel pumps to get his motor to work properly he was also able to buy a spare 12 v electric automotive pump in Fredericton just in case.
Aurora is the fastest boat in the flotilla, here she is passing us on the way back to RKYC.
Day 16:
Up early and down to the marshaling area to shoot the reversing falls. Most of the boats arrived on time and we were waiting for the signal from the ground spotter (Bernie) to tell us the slack was starting. It was agreed that the power boats would go thru first a little earlier to allow the slower boats time at max slack.
Starting toward the reversing falls
After running the falls we started our trip to Campobello 50 miles away. There was worrisome afternoon weather reported on our departure, so it was decided the fastest boat Aurora) would strike out to determine which anchorages would suit the group. If the winds were northerly we would have to go to an alternate location. The run down the Bay of Fundy was fairly un-eventful; we got the benefit of an outgoing tide to increase our speed toward Campobello. Most of the sailboats didn’t raise their sails, they reminded me of those WW-II pictures where a squadron of U boats headed out to sea in formation. Each boat was reassuring the other of a great adventure and encouraging their onward pursuit in formation. Our first waypoint is Point Lepreau, then past the Wolves to the our port on to East Quoddy Lighthouse. Once at East Quoddy, we would veer to the right side of the island and make for Friars Bay having received the OK from our lead boat that this anchorage was suitable.
East Quody Lighthouse
Passing to the right of the island created it’s own set of problems as the currents were adverse. The big Fleming stayed center current and threw a large bow wave. It looked like she was pushing against a lot of resistance. We decided to hunt for that sweet spot in the bay, much like when rowing against the stream; if we hug the coast perhaps we will meet less resistance and better yet a favorable current. We were correct; I soon found a sweet spot and got a 2-knot push. We started to catch and pass the Fleming. I radioed the Captain and gave him the info but he remained on course. We passed the Fleming and pressed forward. I would be the first to Friars Bay at this rate. As we passed Harbour De Lute, we met a very strong current emptying into the bay from our Port side, there were boils and eddies which pushed all the boats around. Our speed was reduced as we were now meeting much more resistance from the post side. We pressed forward but took a starboard tack much the same as a sailboat to the wind we used the current. Again increasing our speed albeit angled away from our destination slightly until we passed the outflow. Back on course we arrived in time to pick a choice anchorage.
We were anchored near the Roosevelt Camp pier and behind the salmon pens where many diners were being raised.
Here is Firebird at anchor, note the dock and the amount of distance that the dock can travel with the tides. Those pens are behind Firebird. We watched as a tender boat came along side one of the pens and sluiced fry into the pen. I understand that they will be there for 18 months.
The Flotilla at anchor, the walk is longer but the row out is shorter at low tide.
That evening we would dine at the Roosevelt compound, for now we would go ashore and visit the grounds and displays. Campobello is the only National Park run by two nations. Established on Canadian soil and partially funded by the United States.
This is the entrance to the Campobello site. The Park is on Canadian soil and partially funded by the USA. Note the names, Senator Muskie was from Maine.
The Roosevelt cottage, the gardens were really well maintained and eye catching.
This sign was interesting; no smoking, no dogs, no knives and forks and a separate entrance for handicap French speaking folks. What about those English speaking handicap.
In the laundry room I spotted this stove, note the number of irons on the stove: When one cools, replace it with another.
In the evening we had a meal at the cottage conference area. The Diner we great, Jill had scallops and I had prime rib, the desert was cheesecake with fresh blueberries and coffee. The usual speeches and banter followed.
Dan and Leslie of the Alida, Bernie making another speech.
Day 17:
Today we head to St Andrew across Friars Bay into Passamaquoddy Bay. Problem one: we had to run past the OLD SOW and her piglets. OLD SOW is the largest continuous whirlpool in the Northern Hemisphere and second largest in the world behind the one in Norway and can be seen by airliners on their way to Europe. The piglets are spin off pools much smaller. We determined the best time to pass was at 0842. That is when the tides and currents were the most slack. Problem two: we had to make the passage in heavy fog. So no pictures here fog doesn't make for good pictures (pity).
The following URL provides some copyrighted views of Old Sow:
http://www.google.com/search?q=old+sow&hl=en&client=safari&rls=en&prmd=ivnsm&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=HllWTrKOEoLw0gGpsKiaDA&ved=0CCwQsAQ&biw=1667&bih=850
Day 17:
Arriving at Saint Andrews from Campobello, the boats get set at one of the floating docks. Several sailboats will be rafted together at these docks. The Lydia Green is to the left. She is a small schooner, not being a "SAIL" person, I found out that a schooner can be distinguished by the rear mast is taller than the front mast.
Apres Ski arrives to the float.
Alida owner drying out her gear.
Saint Andrews New Brunswick Canada.
St Andrews is a lovely village, I wish we had more that a day to visit. Perhaps a road trip will be in order in the fall.
Let me see here dried seaweed or lobster roll, hmm which shall I choose? Dulse is the dried seaweed that is sold on Gran Manan and elsewhere in New Brunswick.
Firebird at mooring, displaying her celebration flags.
The dingy dock at Saint Andrew
We had a private tour of the new aquarium just dedicated the day before. Although still in the throws of construction, we were able to see some of the exhibits. Here is a pool with skates, they are harmless but very curious. They would swim up to your hand and investigate without any signs of fear.
The Mansfield's hosted a welcome party for the flotilla at their very spacious home. They were very gracious and accommodating. Other members of the local Yacht Club were on hand to serve and mingle. I met a cousin of a Beverly resident at the party. Small world indeed.
What would a party be without a welcoming Piper?
The Anna the youngest member of the flotilla.
The commodore of the local yacht club.
This fellow is the wharfinger, someone who controls the moorings and docking but not a law enforcement official. Bibi will meet the boats as they arrive in Saint John and lead them to their mooring and also hand the boaters the mooring lines. What a service, much appreciated and goes a long way to say welcome to our harbor.
After the party, the bus returns the Flotillians to the dock for their goodbys for this is the end of the organized flotilla. Some will stay at Saint Andrews longer while others will start home on different routes. We have chosen to go by way of Lubec passage, most sail boats cannot as their air draft (overhead clearance from the bridge is inadequate)
Evening at Saint Andrews. Can you see the moon rising in the sky?
Looking west the sunset on a great day.
Tomorrow we start out journey home past Old SOW and thru the Lubec Passage under the Franklin Delano Roosevelt Bridge. Both obstacles are daunting because of the tides and currents.
Day 18:
Eastport
Mulholland Point Lighthouse nr Lubec
This is the Franklin Delano Bridge connecting Campobello to Maine at Lubec. The current running under this bridge can reach 6-8 knots. The timing is crucial as there is only a 15 minute "slack" period We didn't get the time just right so we had a quick ride thru.
Popping out of the Lubec Passage under the bridge we head toward the Lubec Passage lighthouse in the middle of the channel. The red and green straddle the lighthouse, this was a bit confusing.
After passing the Lubec Channel lighthouse, we swing to port in a tight turn toward Quoddy Head State Park and West Quoddy light.
West Quody Lighthouse on the point. This is a State Park, another road trip perhaps?
The remainder of this leg of travel was uneventful and without any photo opportunities. We arrived in the Roque Island archipelago. Roque island is a beautiful island with a mile long semi circular sandy beach. Anchorage was easy and sheltered as we were within the center of a series of islands which protected us from most directions. We could get close to the beach and enjoy the surf sound on the beach.
Firebird at anchor. Now the interesting thing about this stop is that we were not allowed to touch land as we hadn't cleared customs and Homeland Defense. We would clear them tomorrow, so all we could do was look ashore.
Moonlight over Roque island anchorage.
Tomorrow we strike out to Northeast Harbor Arcadia to clear customs and Homeland Defense.
Morning at Roque Island, we watched the mist burn off. We hope this will be a clear day for the cruise to Northeast Harbor. But weather forecasts are not encouraging, looks like we can expect fog. That turns out to be a gross understatement.
Waiting for the morning mist to burn off.
We started the return to Northeast harbor thru the "Thorofare" by the time we got to the end the fog was arriving.
Nice and clear but what is that in the distance?
Fog starts making its presents known.
At Northeast Harbor, Jill and Jennifer (Aurora) discuss the end of day and the Flotilla.
The following day we travel to Stonington for fuel, Stonington lobstermen have a reputation of being aggressive to pleasure boats, throwing wakes in the harbor and cutting across their bows with abandon. I found that they lived up to there reputation.
After Stonington we continue pass North Haven Island on the way to Rockland Maine.
Passing North Haven Island we see a lot of great summer homes. Pass the Grey Poupon please.
I wonder if this house on North Haven is a major user of WINDEX.
Rockland Lighthouse at the entrance of Rockland Harbor. We decided to spend the night here, go ashore and look around and get a new Macerator at Hamilton Marine. I will put it in in the evening or early morning before or tomorrow journey to Five Islands.
We will leave in the morning, unfortunately we had a storm come in just after returning from town. It brought heavy rain and winds. Firebird
The Cuckold's Lighthouse in the front of Boothbay undergoing renovations. The locals tell me that an out of state group raised the funds to rebuild the attendant house for the lighthouse. They tell me that this has been done in the past and the house has been destroyed by storms in the past. They question the sanity of doing this again especially since there is no attendant for the light now days, all lighthouses are automated. Still a welcome sight on our trip to Five Islands which is just a few miles away,
At anchor in Five Islands, we get a well deserved RAINBOW and pleasant evening sky.
It looks like a great day coming "red skies at night sailors delight"
Starting out the next day 24 Aug we head home. A familiar sight along the way is Fort Popham. Just a few hours more and we will be docking at Yankee Marina and our adventure will end.
Fort Popham at the mouth of the Kennebec River
We returned past Sequin Lighthouse, Fuller Rock and Eagle Island retracing our route started several weeks ago. We hope you enjoyed this rambling blog and were able to share in our adventure. We traveled 709 Nautical Miles with an average speed of 7.4 knots. Our fastest speed was 14.8 knots (I suspect thru the Lubec Passage) over the 21 days. We met a lot of new friends and enjoyed the challenges as well as the respite from the everyday routine.
All the best
The crew of the Firebird
